1996 Runway Chanel Haute Couture Monochrome Evening Gown

This elegant Chanel monochrome evening dress was ordered directly from the spectacular Fall 1996 Haute Couture show, held at the Ritz, Paris, in January of that year. It is a long sleeve version of Look 52 and in all other respects is the same as the runway presentation design. Anna Wintour felt that the 1996 Haute Couture collection marked a change in the industry, writing in her editor’s letter for Vogue that this collection “moved daringly and definitively away from the plain, minimal, and vulnerable look that has characterised so many clothes over the past five years”.

Even for haute couture, there is an incredible level of craftmanship in this dress which took 140 hours to make plus over 200 hours for the embroidery. The renowned French atelier, Hurel, created and hand-worked the design for Chanel. We understand the price for this dress was over $100,000 and that was back in 1996. The fabric is a translucent silk-chiffon, the top half and the long-sleeves are in charcoal black, and the handkerchief-hem skirt is in a soft, warm white hue. The cloth is detailed with abstract geometric forms in fine chain-stitch embroidery in contrasting monochrome tones that fall the length of the dress. Every single one hand-embellished along the edges with tiny, rounded beads and we estimate several thousand to be present on the dress. The slim cuffs are finished with a band of black beaded embroidery and 6 dainty silk buttons. The elegant, playful skirt is tailored into flared, plumes of cloth which sway around the wearer as they walk. The body and top half of the skirt is lined with a black silk crêpe de chine slip, leaving the décolletage and arms sheer and allowing the skin to peek through. The dress fastens at the back with a hidden tonal zip. The label reads “CHANEL” in silver thread on a black background and is numbered underneath.

This elegant evening gown is in excellent archival condition with no flaws of any note. It is from one of the most important haute couture collections produced during Karl Lagerfeld's long reign as creative director. Many high profile, couture clients request minor variations to runway looks and in expert hands, this design could be further adapted if desired. Of note, there is no seam allowance so the dress cannot be made bigger but it could be taken in.

The outer cloth and lining are both 100% Silk. This piece has no size label so please refer closely to the measurements below as the dress has no stretch. We estimate the current size is around a UK 12 or US 8. More measurements can be provided on request.

MEASUREMENTS

BUST - 42 in. (107 cm)

WAIST - 40 in. (102 cm)

HIP - 42 in. (107 cm)

LENGTH - 57 in. (145 cm)